After all the time I’ve spent in Mexico, on this trip home I made it a point to visit Loreto, while still in Baja Sur! With the spectacular views of the Sea of Cortez on one side, and the Sierra de la Giganta mountains on the other, there is the picturesque little “Pueblo Mágico” of Loreto, Baja California Sur. What is a “Pueblo Mágico”? While the direct translation is “Magic Town”, it’s a title given to select towns throughout the country by the Mexican Secretariat of Tourism. Specific locations that maintain a certain beauty, cultural richness, historical relevance and hospitality are given this name. The hope was to attract tourists to smaller, more rural locations to better experience the indigenous culture, unique landscape and learn local history, giving a visitors a “magical” experience.
Do you feel the “magic” when you visit a Pueblo Mágico? Most definitely. In the two that I’ve spent the most time in while visiting Baja Sur (Todos Santos and now Loreto), both have the kindest and most welcoming people, and a certain vibe you just can’t quite explain… it’s just a feeling that comes with knowing you’re somewhere very old, and very significant… a place that has witnessed a lot of important times. Times that came with difficulty and change, but also love, and growth.
About Loreto, Baja Sur
Loreto was founded by Spanish Jesuits in 1697, and is believed to have been the first settlement in all of the Baja peninsula. It’s population is somewhere between 18,000-20,000 people. It’s located on the east side of the Peninsula, about a third of the way up, on the Sea of Cortez/Gulf of California side.
- Drive from Cabo: 6 hrs
- Drive from La Paz: 4 hrs
- Drive from Mexicali border crossing: 11-12 hrs
Even though it has its own international airport, with flights coming in regularly from Canada and the USA, it still hasn’t attracted quite as large of a crowd that Los Cabos and La Paz have. Many retired expats have been coming here for years, and have managed to keep it a little secret, and maintain the laidback, quiet charm of the town compared the wilder groups that flock to the Cabo area.
The “Must See’s” When you Visit Loreto
Misión Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó
One of the most special things about Loreto, is that it is home to the peninsula’s first functioning mission, Misión Nuestra Señora de Loreto Conchó. Jesuit Padre Juan Aria de Salvatierra founded the mission in 1697, but the stone and mortar church you see standing today was built between 1740 to 1744. After this, along the peninsula, 30 more missions were built, and 11 visitas (sub-missions) to continue to “spread the Christian word” to the indigenous people, in what was now New Spain. The inscription above this church entranceway reads “head and mother of the missions of Lower and Upper California”. If you wanted to learn more about the history of these missions you can pop into the museum next-door, the Museo de las Misiones.
If you love seeing this type of thing as much as I do, there is another misión about an hour’s drive from Loreto called Misión San Francisco Javier de Viggé-Biaundó, or more commonly Misión San Javier. It was built between 1744 and 1758 and has been referred to as “the jewel of the Baja California mission churches”.
Plaza Juarez
If you made it to see the misión, then you couldn’t have missed the oh-so-photographable archway of topiary trees that leads from the church to Plaza Juárez. In my experience, there is always something fun going on in the plaza in these small Baja towns… while we were there, it was a children’s dance recital for “Día del Niño”, a holiday that celebrates children, on the stage with live music that was so sweet.
As in other parts of town, the plaza boasts iconic colonial-style architecture that embodies the old, warm Mexican charm that by now, you’ve undoubtedly grown to love. Notable buildings in the plaza include town hall (Palacio Municipal), exhibiting art depicting the history of Loreto, the salmon-coloured Hotel Posada de las Flores, and multiple cafés and restaurants, as well as a brewery.
Malecon (boardwalk)
Stroll the Malecon along Boulevard López Mateos to enjoy the peace of the Sea of Cortez on one side, and likely spot dolphins, whales, sea lions, and more. Take in the gorgeous views of the mountains on the five islands across the bay (best at sunrise, but sunset was pretty sweet too). The bay itself is home to the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Parque Marítimo Nacional Bahía de Loreto, and is the largest marine preserve in all of Mexico.
Other things to do:
Get out on the water
Hire a “panga”, one of the small, fiberglass boats you see on all shorelines of the peninsula, to go fishing for Dorado (Mahi Mahi), go whale watching (Blue Whales are spotted here February & March), or tour the islands and beaches across the bay.
Rent kayaks or paddle boards, or go snorkelling or diving to explore rock reefs, caves, and even shipwrecks.
The beaches in Loreto are swimmable if laying on the sand and taking regular dips are more your thing!
Go hiking
Get out and explore the Sierra de la Giganta mountain range. A popular one is Tabor Canyon. If you’d rather a guide, there is plenty of options, and these are great as they often can point out local flora and fauna for you to get a more educational experience.
Awesome option: take a hiking tour to see the cave paintings of “La Pinguica/Canipole” with a guide who will offer transportation to get there, explanations on wildlife you may come across, and stories of indigenous life and history of the area.
Go ATVing/UTVing
If walking/hiking isn’t for you, but you still want to get out and explore the desert, ATV tours and rentals are highly popular all over Baja Sur.
Tour Companies:
Golf
Golf (and stay) at Loreto Bay Resort, just ten minutes south of town, and check out the growing real estate development in the area of Nopoló. Or go another ten minutes south to get to Villa Del Palmar for the white sand beaches of Ensenada Blanca, and golfing at their vacation resort.
Where to Stay
- Hostel: Hostal Casas Loreto is the only one in town, but is in a super cute location, and gets great reviews.
- RV Parks:
- Loreto Shores RV Park has a pool, big rig friendly, although tight, and is right on the beach.
- Romanitas 2 is another favourite for big rigs because it avoids driving through town, but it’s across the highway and not right in town, but a quick drive to get there.
- there are many more, but these are the two most popular for big rigs!
- Hotels:
- Hotel Oasis has a beautiful pool area, it’s own restaurant and bar right on the beach with Sea views. Rooms are a little dated, but a good size, and clean. Awesome breakfast included!
- Hotel Santa Fe Loreto is larger, has a more modern pool and rooms, each with a kitchenette, but is just a little longer of a walk to the plaza.
- Posada de las Flores is the small boutique hotel that is right in the plaza, so can be loud, but it’s beautiful, and is walkable to everything, and has a rooftop pool and terrace.
Where to Eat
- For Fish Tacos: El Rey del Taco
- For Sea Views: El Caloron
- For coffee: La Route Cafe
- For a treat: La Creperia
- For Italian with an Uruguay flare: Mezzaluna
- Best for plaza views: 1697 Restaurant
I hope you’ve enjoyed reading, and I’ve inspired you to visit Loreto, Baja Sur, Mexico! If you’re interested in other Baja Sur destinations, check out these other articles!
Stay itchy,
-Ash
